Kalani Chapman ...5 hours ago.
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I know I said I wouldn't post much until I got home, but I had an idea. Today was just insane here, so if you want to see more of this, please click on the link below, or copy and paste it, which will take you to my blog for this trip.
Matt, I think you'll enjoy the ramblings.
Edited 4th Jan 2011 from here on.
I suppose I should elaborate on this photo a bit more as I have now submitted it to the "Best of 2010" theme.
It is obviously Kalani Chapman as the title implies, whom I have a huge amount of respect for and always enjoyed shooting. I also grew up through my early surfing days watching his uncle Owl Chapman mix it up out here at Pipeline, but back in those days I couldn't afford to ever come over here.
To be here this particular day last year Feb 10th and to witness the skill levels in this calibre of surf is quite something else. These guys go hard at the best of times, but this day was just huge. All three reefs breaking and a lot of chaos happening.
There were heaps of really good rides over the course of the day by a lot of the crew out there, but Kalani and a select few others were hanging right out the back near third reef for a lot of the day just waiting for those big monsters to roll through and give them the proverbial "pot of gold" to work it all the way in to the beach.
This is exactly what he was finishing off in this image. He has ridden it all the way from out the back through second reef and in this shot he is screaming accross first reef into the beach while being slowly but surely hunted down by this warp speed beast of a wave.
For Kalani, I'm guessing that it will be one of those moments that is etched into his memory bank for a very long time to come, it sure as hell will be for me and I was just witnessing and documenting it.
For the board he is riding here it was its final moment of glory, as right at the last moment the wave closed out over him and snapped it in half. Kalani just did a quick 20 meter swim into the beach with the back half still hanging off his leg rope and was greeted by TV cameras and crew shoving michrophones in his face telling him how good that ride he just nailed was. There was a chopper hovering overhead watching all the action and a million photogs and randoms on the beach sucking it all up.
In short, it was a day to remember for all concerned, and for me......well I walked away with this shot and a stack of other gold in the three weeks I was there, but this one alone was worth all the effort of getting over there from Australia that season and is now imortalised on my wall in a very large size, and I live that wave every time I look at it....look at the thing, the water from his wake on the roof hasn't even started to fall and he's 10 meters down the line....that's what I call speed. And as for the carnage exploding behind it in the background....well, thats another story again.
In the story Hard Drive....Hard lessons learnt. Back up !.
Also by Mal Stewart
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