My Favourite Lonavala Stays, Read in Stone and Rain

I read a place the way I used to read a hotel at 3am: by what it's made of and how it holds up when conditions change.

Lonavala rewards that habit, so here is my little black book of surfaces to look at and rooms to come back to.

The materials this district is made of

Stone and water are my two Lonavala materials, and the oldest stone comes first.

The Karla and Bhaja rock-cut Buddhist caves date to the 2nd and 3rd centuries BCE. Karla has one of India's largest ancient rock-cut chaitya halls, and Bhaja has an open-air dancing scene carved into the rock.

Bhaja is usually visited with Karla and has a group of 14 stupas, so I'd pair them in one stone-themed outing.

Both are about a 30-minute drive from Lonavala town. Rain suits them, since the carvings are said to look even more impressive when wet.

The surface that owns the morning

Mornings belong to the hill forts and the water. Lohagad is my easy pick: a moderate walk up stone pathways with views over Pawna Lake.

At the top, the sharp ridge called Vinchu Kata, the Scorpion's Tail, hangs off the cliff. It's a small thrill, and so worth it!

For a gentler start, Tungarli Lake, at the base of Rajmachi, suits morning walks. Its dam dates from the 1930s.

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   Kumar Resort By Turtle, Lonavala

   Kumar Resort By Turtle, Lonavala - my base for Lohagad and Bhaja mornings, and the hot tub is a treat for tired legs! (Booking.com)
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   Treebo Reveniir Resort

   Treebo Reveniir Resort - near Tungarli Dam, with balcony rooms and a pool for the walk back, and I'm fond of it! See the stay ->

The surface that owns the evening

Evenings are for the viewpoints and the big water. Tiger's Point and Lion's Point are windy ridges with tea and bhaji stalls.

I'd rather give a whole evening to Pawna Lake. It's quiet, known for sunsets, and backed by forts like Lohagad.

It's also the most popular camping area in Lonavala. Sleeping in a proper bed afterwards is my kind of compromise.

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   Enrise By Sayaji Lonavala

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   Enrise By Sayaji Lonavala - mountain-view rooms and a pool for slow evenings, and if you want the airport shuttle, ask the desk to confirm it at booking! (official site)

Weather as a developing agent

The monsoon is Lonavala's darkroom, and it changes everything.

Bhushi Dam is lively in the monsoon, but stay out of fast-moving streams and enjoy it from the shallow edges. Kune Falls is a three-tier waterfall viewpoint.

Trekkers favour the Rajmachi overnight trek in July. As May turns to June, fireflies light up the Rajmachi forest after dark.

On the night desk, rainy nights brought one question around 1am: will the road be fine tomorrow? Ask before you drive.

A room close to the best wall

If you'd rather stay in town and go out by cab, auto-rickshaws, local taxis and cabs wait near the railway station and bus stand.

The question guests always asked me after midnight was how early they could get out in the morning. Both of these have a 24-hour front desk, so ask them. More places to stay in Lonavala are there if you want to compare.

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   Hotel Lonavla

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   Hotel Lonavla - near ST Lonavla Bus Stop and Gawli Naka, my pick among hotels in Lonavala for car hire and a tour desk, though confirm those at booking!
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   Hotel Matruchhaya Lonavala - Premium Quality And Comfort

   Hotel Matruchhaya Lonavala - near the bus stand and the Old Mumbai-Pune Highway, with a garden and breakfast that can be served in the room, which I love. (Tripadvisor)

The texture shot list

Here is my shot list. Wet rock inside Karla, the ridge at Vinchu Kata, the water at Tungarli, and Pawna Lake at dusk.

Add a stop for chikki, since Maganlal and Cooper's are both named for chikki and fudge. It's a small delight!

Prices and availability can change, so confirm when booking. You can also browse handpicked Lonavala accommodation.

Now go wander and find your own favourite wall.